Muskegon, Michigan to Grand Rapids, Michigan - August 4, 2023

Over the Grand (End of the Road)

Our final day on the tour was predictably bittersweet. I woke up earlier than usual this morning, so early in fact, that Donald barely recognized me.

We packed our gear and made our way into Muskegon for a hearty breakfast, though it was slightly challenging to get moving as usual.

The day's cycling journey was about 45 miles, nearly nonstop, all the way to Grand Rapids. Our ride was eased by the excellent rail trail we followed and the weather was perfect - sunny with minimal wind.

Green Rail Trail

Angel on the Shoulder

Upon reaching Grand Rapids, we snapped a picture on a bridge overlooking the Grand River. Spotting Founders Brewery - a place that came highly recommended - we cycled over for a well-deserved break. We enjoyed some nachos and drinks, and took the opportunity to charge our cell phones. While there, I booked a room at the Radisson Hotel for a couple of nights and after our break, we headed there.

Slow Going to the Hotel

After freshening up with a shower and catching up on some blogging, we strolled over to a local Mexican place for dinner. We ended the day with ice cream cones from Frosty Boy.

Reflecting on the tour, I identified a few upgrades I'd like to make before the next one, including new bicycle shorts and a higher extension fitting for my Aerobars. I'm also contemplating getting a "Da Brim" hat, not for its looks, but for its sun protection.

Note: We've dropped off our bicycles at Grand Rapids Bicycle Company. They'll box them up and contact us for shipping details.

Cycling with Donald this summer was a wonderful experience. I'm looking forward to hopefully touring with him again soon.

We cycled 48 miles today, bringing our total distance for the tour to over 1,200 miles, from Fargo, North Dakota, to Grand Rapids, Michigan.

New Era, Michigan to Muskegon, Michigan - August 3, 2023

Harley Davidson Dealership Concert

Our day began with packing up and leaving the campsite after a quick breakfast consisting of food we had brought along with us - oatmeal, nut mix, and Clif Bars. I have to admit, Donald's idea to bring a stove turned out to be great. His stove had provided us with hot water for coffee and oatmeal many times during our trip. I'm strongly considering taking my Pocket Rocket stove on my next extended tour.

Holiday Camping Resort (Morning)

We put in some effort early on and biked to Whitehall to look for a place to have breakfast. Due to an conversation we were having while riding on a bicycle path, we unintentionally overshot the main part of the town. We doubled back to The Homestead Restaurant and Bakery, where we ordered large meals. As has often been the case in my life, the waitress lightly teased me, I think due to my way of ordering. She was surprised when I asked for an omelette as well as a large bowl of oatmeal. I finished almost everything, leaving only a little toast on my plate. After finishing, I could hardly stand.

We continued on to Muskegon, the starting point for our final ride. There, we asked about a campsite at Fisherman’s Landing Launch. Luckily, they had a spot available, although a sprinkler was drenching the area when we arrived. After a quick phone call, they allowed us to relocate to a drier site.

While Donald relaxed on a swing, I set up my hammock and took a nap for over an hour. It was wonderful.

Fisherman’s Landing Launch Hammock Setup

After setting up our tents, we ventured into Muskegon to find a place for dinner. We were drawn to a free concert at the Harley Davidson dealership where hard rock was the order of the day, with covers by Rush, AC/DC, and Motley Crue. Inside, we played a few rounds of a basketball hoop shoot game. Donald was disappointed with the results and suggested a physical game of one-on-one. Given the equipment, I made no comment.

By Request

We moved on to the Owl Spirit Restaurant in downtown. Over our meal, we watched as storm clouds rolled in. A powerful wind and rainstorm hit suddenly, toppling my bicycle and dislodging my basket before we could move them indoors.

We waited out the storm until after ten o'clock. We've been incredibly fortunate with the weather during our trip, always managing to find shelter.

Finally, we cycled back to our campsite at Fisherman’s Landing Launch. After a quick shower, I called it a night.

Today, we covered 35 miles by bike.

Free Soil, Michigan to New Era, Michigan - August 2, 2023

Closing in on New Era

Today was a bit of a struggle for me. We were both noticeably tired, but we pressed on.

Cafe Mural Outside Brenda’s

We packed up and cycled around ten miles to Ludington, where we stopped at Brenda’s Harbor Cafe. We both ordered large breakfasts and the Swedish burrito as a side dish. Donald, being Norwegian, thoroughly enjoyed his meal, although he was somewhat disappointed that it was a Swedish specialty.

Our next stop was in Pentwater at Cenzo’s, a grocery store primarily selling a wide variety of drinks. We took a break at an indoor table, indulging in some cold electrolyte drinks in the refreshing air-conditioned space. It's always a relief to find shelter indoors when on bike tours - living outdoors really does toughen you up.

Crusin’ Along Waterways

Generating Power

Warlord

We then followed a bike trail to New Era. Along the way, I finally caught a second wind. Our luck held as we discovered The Artisan Cafe. Here, we watched music video after music video while devouring nachos and large burritos. Donald added several “pork chops” to his order. The waiter was astonished by the quantity of food we could consume. I suspect my stomach has expanded on this trip - I'm looking forward to returning to my usual diet of salads with a bit of protein on top.

After filling our bellies to the brim, we pedaled about 4.5 miles to the Holiday Camping Resort outside New Era. The camping fee was a little on the steep side, but the bathroom and shower facilities were clean. A campsite manager on a golf cart, cigarette tucked behind his ear, approached us because we had mistakenly chosen the wrong tent site, as a Subaru was parked in our assigned spot. We quickly resolved the mix-up.

After setting up our tents, Donald spoke with a curious couple about our trip. They confirmed that there was a bike trail we could take to Grand Rapids out of Muskegon. After a while, Donald subtly hinted it was time for them to leave by starting to inflate his sleeping pad. There are moments when one simply needs some quiet.

A shower felt fantastic after the long day.

We cycled 53 miles today.

Elberta, Michigan to Free Soil, Michigan - August 1, 2023

Lookout at Inspiration Point

Today proved to be, arguably, the most physically demanding day of our tour so far, due to a variety of circumstances.

We both had a light breakfast at our picnic table at Bestie Lake Campground, including apple turnovers. These taste decent, but don’t provide much sustained energy for cycling. Donald and I fare better when we have a substantial breakfast, and today’s meal fell short, considering the strenuous journey ahead of us.

Grind

The first 21 miles entailed numerous steep uphill climbs, followed by exhilarating downhill coasts. The climbs were so prolonged that I hardly got out of my saddle; instead, I shifted to a low gear and steadily ground out the distance. Donald was moving at a noticeably faster pace than me.

Around the 10-mile mark, we took a brief break to climb to a view, Inspiration Point, overlooking Lake Michigan. The only downside was the peculiar sound made by a parked Tesla nearby. Whenever we passed – it sounded like a person passing gas. Is this what the world has come to?

Drying Out at the Speckled Goat

At mile 21, Donald entered the town of Onekama and found the Speckled Goat General Store. Via text, he informed me where he planned to have lunch. I joined him inside after hanging my tent to dry on my bike outside the store. My sandwich was a touch greasy. I also selected a craft bottle of root beer and a berry cheesecake – again, sugar leads to a quick energy crash on a bicycle tour, a fact that I should remember by now.

Settling in at Manistee 

Nap Scene

We pressed on to Manistee and found a park in the town. Exhausted, we took naps on the grass, while a man leisurely smoked a cigarette and drank a beer beside us before revving up his motorcycle and leaving. It's worth noting that there were quite a few small ants around, but they were only a minor nuisance.

Before leaving Manistee, we stopped at a grocery store for dinner supplies. Outside the store, we ate a few food items by our locked bikes before undertaking the final 18-mile ride to the campsite. I had a sugary Starbucks coffee drink and four hard-boiled eggs.

I finally caught my second wind during the final push to the Lakeview campsite. Fortunately, the terrain was relatively flat, allowing us to maintain a pace of approximately 13 to 14 mph.

Lakeview Campsite + Fire

Upon arrival, we set up our tents. Donald started a fire in the ring – our first of the tour. We each enjoyed dinner at the picnic table and had a pleasant chat. Afterwards, we took showers and retreated to our tents.

We covered 53 miles today.

Leland, Michigan to Elberta, Michigan - July 31, 2023

Bright Light

Today we got off to an earlier start, packing up and departing from Adele and Page's place after expressing our gratitude for their hospitality. 

We pedaled to Tricia’s Dishes in Leland for breakfast and coffee. I spent some time updating the blog while savoring a Western omelette and a bowl of oatmeal. Donald opted for a breakfast burrito. We cleared our own dishes before leaving.

Gravel Pathway

The cycling today was, yet again, spectacular. We traversed along quiet roads and bike trails for nearly the entire route.

Follow

Dune Walkers

Our noteworthy stop today was at Sleeping Bear Dunes. This proved to be a unique and memorable experience. Upon arrival, we secured our bikes and embarked on our climb. For about 45 minutes, we hiked, marveling at the picturesque vistas and observing other climbers as they ascended. Many were lounging on the sand, enjoying the view. I’m glad we brought along water and our cameras. Afterwards, we purchased sports drinks from a vending machine and ate some of our own food. I also took the chance to stow my tent, which had been drying on my bike during our excursion on the dunes.

Knowing we had approximately 40 miles of cycling ahead to reach our campsite, we set off, planning to tackle the distance a bit at a time. I believe both Donald and I prefer to break down the journey into smaller chunks. Viewing the day's ride in 5 to 10-mile sections makes it easier to cover the 50 to 60 miles we aim to do each day. Embracing small goals is a way of life.

Before reaching our campsite, we stopped in Frankfort for groceries, stocking up on dinner and breakfast items.

Setup

At the campsite, we had our dinner, pitched our tents, and used the shower facilities. A man from Cleveland stopped by for a chat before we retired to our tents for the night. He had a custom dog carrier attached just behind his bicycle handlebar. He asked about our journey and shared stories about other bicycle tourists he had encountered. When questioned about his home in Cleveland, he enthusiastically declared his love for it.

We covered 56 miles today.

Elk Rapids, Michigan to Leland, Michigan - July 30, 2023

Crank Fix at Einstein

Today got off to a later start than usual, largely due to waiting for my laundry to dry. Donald spent some time adjusting his pedal with a rubber mallet kindly provided by our host, James.

Warm Showers Campsite

We initially planned on having a sit-down breakfast but, finding the local eatery packed, opted for a grocery store nearby. We bought our items and took a seat on a bench just inside the store, consuming breakfast sandwiches while people-watching. We probably did give off a somewhat homeless vibe. We departed Elk Rapids at noon.

Dining at the Grocery Store

The early afternoon provided us with a ride on low-traffic roads and beautiful bicycle trails. The western side of Michigan truly is stunning.

Quiet Roads of Michigan 🌤️

Difficult Days for “Da Brim”

In Travers City, we stopped at Einstein Cycles, hoping to get Donald's crank looked at. We were in luck - they put his bike on a lift right away and professionally fixed the crank. Donald bought a shirt at the shop and, in hindsight, I wish I had too. However, I did leave with a couple of free stickers. Before leaving, we stopped next door for a coffee, courtesy of Donald. He also popped across the street to a gas station to purchase a new USB charging plug to replace one he'd lost.

Trailside Break

For the remainder of the day, we continued along bicycle trails. It's evident that Michigan is investing heavily in its bicycle infrastructure, making Washington State look a bit lackluster in comparison. At one point, we paused at a bench to enjoy some food and an electrolyte drink.

Adele and Page’s Place

Lake Michigan Swim Spot

We pressed on to Leland, finding a charming pub, The Cove, by the waterfront. After grabbing a drink and ordering food to go, we cycled a short distance to our second Warm Showers host, Adele and Page's place. Their home was truly extraordinary. We pitched our tents on their lawn, changed into our shorts, and took a leisurely dip in Lake Michigan. I was surprised by how warm the water was - a fantastic way to end the day. We ate dinner on a provided picnic bench, took a refreshing shower, and wound down the day with a chat with Adele, Page, and Thad, their son. They were incredibly welcoming people.

We covered 48 miles today.

Petoskey, Michigan to Elk Rapids, Michigan - July 29, 2023

End of the Road?

Today began in a routine manner, but it did not conclude that way.

Petoskey Campsite

Filling Bottles

We woke up at the Petoskey group site and enjoyed breakfast at a picnic table before setting out. Our journey started with a serene ride along a designated bicycle trail. However, several miles in, we were halted by a chain-link fence within the city limits of Petoskey. We noticed a frequently used path around it and decided to bypass the barrier. This decision resulted in hardship. 

The Grind

Not far down the path, we encountered a significant washout area. We decided to carry our gear and bikes separately across the gap and then reload on the other side. It required effort, but we managed it.

Second Slide with Recovered Bag

Our troubles didn't end there. We soon came across another washed-out section that had rendered the trail impassable. We repeated the process of unloading our gear, crossing the gap, and reloading on the other side. In the process, I accidentally dropped Donald's dry bag down the slide, but he retrieved it. My Karma took a deep hit  

We soon encountered another fence, which we wisely decided not to circumvent. Instead, we navigated through a monitored gated community, rejoining our route unscathed.

Charlevoix Library

Coming Into Port

The rest of the journey to Charlevoix, about twenty miles away, was smooth. We stopped for lunch and visited the local library where I needed to address some blockchain-related issues.

With just over thirty miles to Elk Rapids, we resumed our ride. Around the twentieth mile, Donald's left crank arm detached from his bike and fell onto the pavement, causing a passing motorcyclist to honk at him.

The Pound

We walked over to a logging shop off the main road to inspect the damage. Using a weathered two-by-four, Donald managed to hammer the crank arm back into place after loosening the tightening screws. With just one adjustment, the crank arm held until we reached our destination, Elk Rapids.

In town, we purchased dinner supplies from a grocery store and made our way to the home of James, Lauren, and their daughter Mira. I had previously contacted them via the Warm Showers website, a platform familiar to bicycle tourists.

We pitched our tents in their backyard, enjoyed dinner at a picnic table, and took showers. I was grateful for the opportunity to do a load of laundry in their machine, although it unintentionally affected the hot water supply for Donald's shower. He had advised me to wait, but I failed to heed his warning. I'll need to make amends for this soon. 😌

We covered fifty-eight miles today.

Mackinaw City, Michigan to Petoskey, Michigan - July 28, 2023

✌️ Dunes

Today was another phenomenal day of cycling. We began by packing up our gear. I cleaned my bike with a washcloth from the Days Inn. If they can’t get it clean, I hope that I am charged.

For breakfast, we chose the Pancake Chef, situated less than a mile from our hotel. Donald enjoyed what he claimed to be the best omelette of the trip, while I indulged in a buffet meal. Although Donald's choice probably tasted better, I was aiming for maximum calories.

Our journey from Mackinaw City comprised bicycle trails and backcountry roads with minimal traffic. Along the way, we savored glimpses of Lake Michigan peeking through the dunes and forest.

Tunnel of Trees

A surprise treat on today's journey was the mesmerizing Tunnel of Trees, a canopy of maples and oaks that stretched over miles of winding road. Bathed in the shade of the foliage, we appreciated every moment of this picturesque trail. This epitomizes the joy of bicycle touring.

Near the end of the Tunnel, we took a break for some food and souvenirs at a store in Good Hart. We met a fellow cyclist named Paul at the picnic area, whom we would encounter again at Petoskey State Park. Incredibly, Paul offered us a spot at his campsite if we were unable to secure one of our own. His kindness eased our concerns as we set off for the final twenty miles of the day.

The Toss, The Smile

Before leaving Good Hart, Donald and I engaged in a friendly game of Corn Hole. Despite having a chance to win, Donald clearly played the better game. His subsequent show of technique felt a touch boastful.

Priority Parking at the Grocery Store

Cycling Past the Private Jets

Upon reaching Harbor Springs, we picked up groceries for our dinner and breakfast and enjoyed some electrolyte drinks on a bench outside the store, offering us a prime spot for people-watching.

Picnic Dinner

Locking Up for Dinner

Finally, we took a bicycle trail for the last 6.5 miles to Petoskey State Park. Here, we were offered a spot at a discounted rate in the group site. After a dinner on the shore, Donald decided to go for a swim, while I headed to the shower facility.

We covered fifty miles today.

Naubinway, Michigan to Mackinaw City, Michigan - July 27, 2023

Mackinac Island

Today was unexpectedly special and memorable for us on our biking journey.

Stopping for a Bar

The day began as usual; we had breakfast consisting of Raisin Bran and then packed up our gear. Without many interruptions, we covered the thirty-five-mile stretch to Saint Ignace, where we stopped for a meal at the Mackinac Grille & Patio Bar.

Leaving the Bicycle Underworld

Port View

Our adventure took an exciting turn as we boarded the Star Line Ferry Boat to Mackinac Island. Upon disembarking with our bikes, we quickly realized that we had traded the solitude of the Upper Peninsula for a cyclist's paradise. The island, about which I hadn't previously done much research, has been free of motorized vehicles for 125 years. Transportation here revolves around bicycles, horse-drawn carriages, and walking. The bustling tourism was a stark contrast to our previous encounters.

A Place for a Dip

We cycled away from the town center along the coastline, heading northeast. A paved bike trail encircles the island, providing beautiful views all around. We paused to enjoy a swim in Lake Huron and air-dried ourselves under the sun. Later, we ventured back into town and visited a local brewery before taking the ferry to Mackinaw City.

During our ferry ride, Donald and I sparked a friendly conversation with a mother and son duo both sporting Detroit Lions shirts. They were optimistic about the Lions' chances in the upcoming Super Bowl, while we, being Seattle fans, respectfully disagreed. The banter made for an entertaining ride as we all marveled at the stunning Mackinac Bridge and the beautiful surrounding waters.

Upon disembarking, we promptly found our budget accommodation for the night, The Days Inn. After freshening up, we satisfied our appetites at a nearby restaurant.

All in all, we covered roughly forty miles today.