Elk Rapids, Michigan to Leland, Michigan - July 30, 2023

Crank Fix at Einstein

Today got off to a later start than usual, largely due to waiting for my laundry to dry. Donald spent some time adjusting his pedal with a rubber mallet kindly provided by our host, James.

Warm Showers Campsite

We initially planned on having a sit-down breakfast but, finding the local eatery packed, opted for a grocery store nearby. We bought our items and took a seat on a bench just inside the store, consuming breakfast sandwiches while people-watching. We probably did give off a somewhat homeless vibe. We departed Elk Rapids at noon.

Dining at the Grocery Store

The early afternoon provided us with a ride on low-traffic roads and beautiful bicycle trails. The western side of Michigan truly is stunning.

Quiet Roads of Michigan 🌤️

Difficult Days for “Da Brim”

In Travers City, we stopped at Einstein Cycles, hoping to get Donald's crank looked at. We were in luck - they put his bike on a lift right away and professionally fixed the crank. Donald bought a shirt at the shop and, in hindsight, I wish I had too. However, I did leave with a couple of free stickers. Before leaving, we stopped next door for a coffee, courtesy of Donald. He also popped across the street to a gas station to purchase a new USB charging plug to replace one he'd lost.

Trailside Break

For the remainder of the day, we continued along bicycle trails. It's evident that Michigan is investing heavily in its bicycle infrastructure, making Washington State look a bit lackluster in comparison. At one point, we paused at a bench to enjoy some food and an electrolyte drink.

Adele and Page’s Place

Lake Michigan Swim Spot

We pressed on to Leland, finding a charming pub, The Cove, by the waterfront. After grabbing a drink and ordering food to go, we cycled a short distance to our second Warm Showers host, Adele and Page's place. Their home was truly extraordinary. We pitched our tents on their lawn, changed into our shorts, and took a leisurely dip in Lake Michigan. I was surprised by how warm the water was - a fantastic way to end the day. We ate dinner on a provided picnic bench, took a refreshing shower, and wound down the day with a chat with Adele, Page, and Thad, their son. They were incredibly welcoming people.

We covered 48 miles today.

Petoskey, Michigan to Elk Rapids, Michigan - July 29, 2023

End of the Road?

Today began in a routine manner, but it did not conclude that way.

Petoskey Campsite

Filling Bottles

We woke up at the Petoskey group site and enjoyed breakfast at a picnic table before setting out. Our journey started with a serene ride along a designated bicycle trail. However, several miles in, we were halted by a chain-link fence within the city limits of Petoskey. We noticed a frequently used path around it and decided to bypass the barrier. This decision resulted in hardship. 

The Grind

Not far down the path, we encountered a significant washout area. We decided to carry our gear and bikes separately across the gap and then reload on the other side. It required effort, but we managed it.

Second Slide with Recovered Bag

Our troubles didn't end there. We soon came across another washed-out section that had rendered the trail impassable. We repeated the process of unloading our gear, crossing the gap, and reloading on the other side. In the process, I accidentally dropped Donald's dry bag down the slide, but he retrieved it. My Karma took a deep hit  

We soon encountered another fence, which we wisely decided not to circumvent. Instead, we navigated through a monitored gated community, rejoining our route unscathed.

Charlevoix Library

Coming Into Port

The rest of the journey to Charlevoix, about twenty miles away, was smooth. We stopped for lunch and visited the local library where I needed to address some blockchain-related issues.

With just over thirty miles to Elk Rapids, we resumed our ride. Around the twentieth mile, Donald's left crank arm detached from his bike and fell onto the pavement, causing a passing motorcyclist to honk at him.

The Pound

We walked over to a logging shop off the main road to inspect the damage. Using a weathered two-by-four, Donald managed to hammer the crank arm back into place after loosening the tightening screws. With just one adjustment, the crank arm held until we reached our destination, Elk Rapids.

In town, we purchased dinner supplies from a grocery store and made our way to the home of James, Lauren, and their daughter Mira. I had previously contacted them via the Warm Showers website, a platform familiar to bicycle tourists.

We pitched our tents in their backyard, enjoyed dinner at a picnic table, and took showers. I was grateful for the opportunity to do a load of laundry in their machine, although it unintentionally affected the hot water supply for Donald's shower. He had advised me to wait, but I failed to heed his warning. I'll need to make amends for this soon. 😌

We covered fifty-eight miles today.

Mackinaw City, Michigan to Petoskey, Michigan - July 28, 2023

✌️ Dunes

Today was another phenomenal day of cycling. We began by packing up our gear. I cleaned my bike with a washcloth from the Days Inn. If they can’t get it clean, I hope that I am charged.

For breakfast, we chose the Pancake Chef, situated less than a mile from our hotel. Donald enjoyed what he claimed to be the best omelette of the trip, while I indulged in a buffet meal. Although Donald's choice probably tasted better, I was aiming for maximum calories.

Our journey from Mackinaw City comprised bicycle trails and backcountry roads with minimal traffic. Along the way, we savored glimpses of Lake Michigan peeking through the dunes and forest.

Tunnel of Trees

A surprise treat on today's journey was the mesmerizing Tunnel of Trees, a canopy of maples and oaks that stretched over miles of winding road. Bathed in the shade of the foliage, we appreciated every moment of this picturesque trail. This epitomizes the joy of bicycle touring.

Near the end of the Tunnel, we took a break for some food and souvenirs at a store in Good Hart. We met a fellow cyclist named Paul at the picnic area, whom we would encounter again at Petoskey State Park. Incredibly, Paul offered us a spot at his campsite if we were unable to secure one of our own. His kindness eased our concerns as we set off for the final twenty miles of the day.

The Toss, The Smile

Before leaving Good Hart, Donald and I engaged in a friendly game of Corn Hole. Despite having a chance to win, Donald clearly played the better game. His subsequent show of technique felt a touch boastful.

Priority Parking at the Grocery Store

Cycling Past the Private Jets

Upon reaching Harbor Springs, we picked up groceries for our dinner and breakfast and enjoyed some electrolyte drinks on a bench outside the store, offering us a prime spot for people-watching.

Picnic Dinner

Locking Up for Dinner

Finally, we took a bicycle trail for the last 6.5 miles to Petoskey State Park. Here, we were offered a spot at a discounted rate in the group site. After a dinner on the shore, Donald decided to go for a swim, while I headed to the shower facility.

We covered fifty miles today.

Naubinway, Michigan to Mackinaw City, Michigan - July 27, 2023

Mackinac Island

Today was unexpectedly special and memorable for us on our biking journey.

Stopping for a Bar

The day began as usual; we had breakfast consisting of Raisin Bran and then packed up our gear. Without many interruptions, we covered the thirty-five-mile stretch to Saint Ignace, where we stopped for a meal at the Mackinac Grille & Patio Bar.

Leaving the Bicycle Underworld

Port View

Our adventure took an exciting turn as we boarded the Star Line Ferry Boat to Mackinac Island. Upon disembarking with our bikes, we quickly realized that we had traded the solitude of the Upper Peninsula for a cyclist's paradise. The island, about which I hadn't previously done much research, has been free of motorized vehicles for 125 years. Transportation here revolves around bicycles, horse-drawn carriages, and walking. The bustling tourism was a stark contrast to our previous encounters.

A Place for a Dip

We cycled away from the town center along the coastline, heading northeast. A paved bike trail encircles the island, providing beautiful views all around. We paused to enjoy a swim in Lake Huron and air-dried ourselves under the sun. Later, we ventured back into town and visited a local brewery before taking the ferry to Mackinaw City.

During our ferry ride, Donald and I sparked a friendly conversation with a mother and son duo both sporting Detroit Lions shirts. They were optimistic about the Lions' chances in the upcoming Super Bowl, while we, being Seattle fans, respectfully disagreed. The banter made for an entertaining ride as we all marveled at the stunning Mackinac Bridge and the beautiful surrounding waters.

Upon disembarking, we promptly found our budget accommodation for the night, The Days Inn. After freshening up, we satisfied our appetites at a nearby restaurant.

All in all, we covered roughly forty miles today.

Manistique, Michigan to Naubinway, Michigan - July 26, 2023

Highway 2 (Oh, the Joy!)

We began the day at a leisurely pace, leaving the campsite around eleven in the morning. The dew had been quite heavy, and we waited for the tents to dry out before packing up.

Our morning ride took us a short distance to a Subway, where we grabbed a bite to eat before cycling onward. Our initial plan was to stop at a pie shop approximately thirty miles down the road, so we packed extra food as a backup. It was a good call; the pie place had closed down and was decaying into oblivion. A crudely painted sign on a plywood board outside read, "Honest Injun Tourist Trap."

Lunch Stop

Not far from there, we pulled into a gravel driveway leading to a dilapidated storage unit. Using a couple of sticks as makeshift bike stands, we propped our bikes up and settled down on the gravel for our sandwiches and drinks.

Waiting it Out

Peeking Out

The post-lunch lethargy soon set in, prompting us to get back on the highway. As we reached our fiftieth mile, the rain started pouring. Luckily, we noticed a small restaurant, the Beary Patch (closed), on the left side of the road. We parked under the front eave just as the heavens opened. Here, we learned of the passing of Sinead O’Connor. As I began reading an article about her life in the Seattle Times, Donald played her iconic song "Nothing Compares 2 U" on his speaker. It was a somber moment that I will remember for a long time.

After an hour-long wait for the storm to pass, we hit the road in search of dinner. We ended up at Moofinfries, a tidy, well-lit establishment that offered delicious take-out food. While waiting for our order, we indulged in milkshakes.

Hog Island Beach Dip

Eight miles later, we arrived at Hog Island Campground for the night. Before tucking in for the night, we took a refreshing dip in Lake Michigan.

We covered 58 miles today.

Escanaba, Michigan to Manistique, Michigan - July 25, 2023

Nail

I had a sound sleep last night, thoroughly enjoying the comfort of a bed. To kick off the day, Donald picked up coffee and bananas from the hotel lobby - a great start before we checked out.

Following the recommendation from our Uber driver the previous evening, we cycled to Drifters Restaurant for a hearty traditional breakfast of eggs, sausage, and pancakes. Though it took some time to digest, these meals powered us through many miles into the Upper Peninsula.

Bike Trail Out of Escanaba

After about ten miles of cycling, we stocked up on groceries for lunch and I bought some emergency food supplies like Clif Bars and trail mix. It's always a relief to know we have enough food and fluids on hand to tackle any challenges that may arise.

Around the thirty-mile mark, Donald's rear tire abruptly deflated. He discovered that a large nail had punctured a hole in the top and exited from the side of his tire. We pulled over and replaced the flat tire with an extra tube that Donald was carrying.

"A clean workspace reflects a focused mind."

A notable takeaway from this experience is that Donald might consider investing in a reliable pump. His current one deflated the tire twice upon removal from the presta valve. The air from my pump is now filling his tire. As my dad often reminded me, "The bitterness of poor quality lasts long after the sweetness of a cheap price."

We then resumed our journey and made a stop at a rest area just 2.5 miles down the road, where we ate our packed lunch.

Linda’s Bread Box (Dinner Items)

The final stretch was under fifteen miles. We reached Indian Lake Campground and, after a chat with the ranger, secured a campsite. The park boasts a shower house and fine picnic benches, creating a family-friendly ambiance with young people cycling around and swimming in the lake.

Indian Creek Campground

Donald and I spent some time unwinding at our picnic table, conversing leisurely before retiring to our tents.

We covered fifty-three miles today.

Crystal Falls, Michigan to Escanaba, Michigan - July 24, 2023

Sign Similarity

Today was a day of embracing the arduous task of cycling. We knew we were up against a hefty stretch of seventy-five miles with minimal services available. In the process, we crossed into the eastern time zone and reached the shore of Lake Michigan, marking the day with the highest mileage in our journey.

We began the day by packing our tents and conversing with the campground host who had stopped by our site for a visit. We also had a brief interaction with a cook who worked at the nearby New Leaf Restaurant and seemed to be a semi-permanent resident of the campground. He sat in his van and rolled cigarettes.

Saying our goodbyes, we headed to the Raven's Nest again for a meal. Despite being somewhat seedy, it was the only place open for breakfast in town. We both ordered the three-egg omelet before hitting the road.

Those Swedes

We biked non-stop for seventy-five miles, pausing briefly at the Viking Trading Post for cold sports drinks and a cookie, and at the closed La Branche Tavern to eat some of the food we had packed.

Lunch Stop

As we were arriving in Escanaba, the sky opened up and drenched us with rain during the last five minutes of our ride. We checked into our pre-booked hotel, the Magnuson Grand Pioneer Inn, and immediately utilized the pool. It was slightly cool but revitalizing.

Exhausted from the ride, we left our bikes at the hotel and took an Uber to Hereford & Hops Steakhouse for dinner. Afterward, we walked to the waterfront for some exploration and then Ubered back to the hotel. In the lobby, I managed to chat with Olin, who was celebrating his 30th birthday, and Beth. 

An odd observation from our journey so far is the unusually high bar tops and tables in Wisconsin and Michigan. I've been contemplating asking for a booster seat.

We cycled seventy-five miles today.

Phelps, Wisconsin to Crystal Falls, Michigan- July 23, 2023

Michigan!

Today marked our official crossing into Michigan, the final state on our tour (though we're still quite a distance from Grand Rapids). The sense of satisfaction that came with this milestone is difficult to express.

Last night, Donald and I slept soundly, feeling almost comatose. We started our day early, with Donald picking up a couple of coffees from the local gas station for a quick breakfast at the table.

Packing my clean laundry into my bag gave me a satisfying sense of order – I'm set for another week.

Crossing Over

In the morning, we cycled about fifteen miles to the Michigan border and paused to soak up the moment. Our first significant stop in the new state was Caspian, a place where we continued our routine of grabbing cold drinks and food from a local gas station. We ate lunch in a gazebo at the back. Both the town and our eating spot seemed to have seen better days.

Caspian Gazebo

Donald’s Third Bicycle

We continued pedaling towards Crystal Falls, tailing a rainstorm. We narrowly missed the rain but ended up pedaling on the wet, steaming pavement it left behind.

Tired from the day's work, we rolled into Crystal Falls, stopping briefly at the courthouse before heading to Paint River Hills Campground. We were greeted warmly by a friendly couple and the campground host. The campsite offers nice tent sites and a relatively new shower house.

Courthouse

Having set up our tents and sleeping pads, we ventured out for dinner at the Raven's Nest Bar, feasting on Philly Cheesesteak sandwiches. I've never eaten so much in bars and gas stations before, but I'm grateful for all the cycling to counterbalance the calories.

The local crowd at the Raven's Nest was friendly, albeit a bit rough. It was unsettling to see a woman and her baby in such an environment, particularly after witnessing a few folks openly using drugs. I pondered if this is a more accepted way of life in the Upper Peninsula?

Upon returning to the campsite, we quickly cleaned up and retreated to our tents as the mosquito onslaught intensified. 

Today, we cycled fifty miles.

Manitowish Waters, Wisconsin to Phelps, Wisconsin - July 22, 2023

Trailside Camp

We rose early from our trailside camp this morning. While exiting my tent, I noticed a woman out for her early morning walk and swiftly retreated back inside.

By around half past six, Donald and I were up and ready to move. The local grocery store was still closed, but we found the Aurora Borealis, a nearby cafe, open for business. Larry joined us for our last meal together before parting ways. Saying goodbye was tough; Larry is an inspirational and humorous travel companion whom we'll miss.

Bike Trail Out of Manitowish Waters

Our journey continued for thirty miles until we reached Star Lake. Upon arrival, a wave of tiredness hit me while resting on a bench at a local store. Donald was also content to take a break, so I set up my hammock in the shade of a kiosk housing historical information and slept for about forty-five minutes.

Star Lake Snooze

Donald decided to venture ahead to scout out the town of Phelps. By the time I arrived, he had already discovered a nearby bar called The Great Escape. As we ate and discussed our plans for the night, our initial idea to swim in North Twin Lake and camp at the local high school morphed into something else. The bar owner mentioned an Airbnb she had upstairs, which boasted three separate bedrooms and a laundry room, so we decided to rent it for the night.

They Have Everything

Horseshoe Hangout

Once we'd cleaned up, done our laundry, and I'd updated the blog, Donald and I went outside to play a few rounds of horseshoes. The best-of-three match didn't go quite as Donald had hoped.

We cycled fifty miles today.