West Glacier, Montana to Rising Sun, Montana - July 30, 2021

Glacier Gate

I woke at about 6:30 this morning knowing I had a memorable day ahead. Upon entering Glacier National Park, I picked up groceries and proceeded to the entrance booths.

There, I was made aware that two portions of the Going-to-the-Sun Road, were, for safety reasons, closed between the hours of 11:00 AM and 4:00 PM. I knew that I could get through the first section before eleven o’clock. The upper part would have to wait until four.

Red Portions Closed Between 11:00 AM and 4:00 PM

This turned out to be advantageous, as it prompted me to spend more leisure time in the park.

I cycled to McDonald Lodge where I poached WiFi, uploaded a blog entry and called Anders. I sat by a small creek and ate a chicken sandwich while sipping coffee and contemplating the day.

McDonald Lodge

McDonald Lights

McDonald Lobby

With plenty of extra time, I cycled up the road to Trail of the Cedars. I ate lunch and wandered the trail, and side trails, of the area. The forest offered a sense of calm before the climb.

Trail of Cedars - Water

Trail of Cedars - Flowing Around the Trunk

Trail of Cedars - Silhouette

Trail of Cedars - Begging Lunch

I left the trailhead, timing my ride to enter the previously off-limits area by four o’clock.

Entering the Climb

The ride to Logan Pass, and the Continental Divide, needs to be experienced to be understood. It was a good challenge for me. The slow grind required staying in the moment at all times. Much of the upper section consists of sheer drops off to one’s right. There are countless blind corners and the roadway is often narrow.

Tunnel 1

Peanut Butter Stop

The state of Montana has made a good call in disallowing RVs on the mountain road. I can’t imagine the vehicles on some of the narrow, curvy parts. This helps keep traffic down. Also, medium-sized tour busses take sightseers up the mountain, taking cars off of the road.

Going-to-the-Sun (Surely)

Steep Drop

Drivers were very courteous, giving me plenty of space. With the exception of one man stating “Not a good idea”, I experienced countless forms of encouragement. Gestures such as clapping, showing thumbs up or the peace sign were common. Statements such as “Awesome!”, “You can do it!” and “Almost there!” were said with sincerity. “You must have really strong legs!” was an interesting take. I don’t, comparatively speaking.

One woman, who I spoke to about a mile from the top said, “You’re my hero. Thanks for talking with me.” This was stated in all earnestness. I couldn’t help but chuckle and smile.

One Mile from the Top

I did appreciate these gestures of good will, although I certainly didn’t deserve them. It seemed, after all, just an unusually challenging day on my bicycle.

I reached the pass at about 8:30 PM - just in time to take a picture of the official sign. A man prompted my movement from the space, as he was on a tight schedule. His attitude was a good challenge for me, just a little gremlin planted as a test.

Summit

I FLEW down the road to Rising Sun Campground, carefully watching for wildlife at high speed. I pulled the brakes a couple of times to allow cars by. The light was fading when I turned into the campground and noticed the “Camping Closed” sign. Another challenge.

There was little light when I entered the office. The young woman at the desk was extremely kind, handling me well. The campground was, in fact, closed. The KOA in Saint Mary was seven miles away. I didn’t really want to get back on the bike in the dark. I inquired about sleeping on the floor of the cafe, which was closed for the season. This was a non-starter. I settled for paying for a cabin, which, after I was settled in, was pretty nice. 

Money greases the gears.

After dragging my bike into the cabin, I walked back to the office to poach WiFi. I talked with Beth and let my family know that I still existed, in living form, on the planet.

Whitefish, Montana to West Glacier, Montana - July 29, 2021

Whitefish Lake State Park (Morning)

I woke this morning to the rustling of tents and cyclists packing for the day. It was pleasant speaking with John and Chad again.

I shot into Whitefish and settled in at Montana Coffee Traders; I’m a creature of habit. If I like something, I’ll go back, never tiring.

Coffee Art

I downloaded the Adventure Cycling Application for my phone and bought the three sections that I plan on riding this summer. They are very informative. I like how the program plots distance and elevation gain and loss.

I loaded up on groceries before leaving town. Of course, I purchased a couple of jars of peanut butter as well as oats. This will help me with my big climb.

I cycled about thirteen miles to Columbia Falls, ducking into their local library for AC and WiFi. I finished a blog entry and relaxed. I’m taking care of my body on this trip.

Columbia Falls Crash

I hit the road again at around four o’clock, feeling the heat on my way to West Glacier.

Fortunately, my route offered wide shoulders and light traffic. My route wad on backroads, avoiding the highway. When The route connected with Highway 2, I was able to take an adjacent bicycle path (relief). Bicycle infrastructure is slowing being built in the States. I’m hopeful that the shoulder is decent over the pass tomorrow.

Blankenship Fire

A Momentary Lapse of Reason

Tomorrow is a BIG day. I’ll be cycling Going-to-the-Sun Road. It’s a bucket list ride for any bicycle tourist. There’s a National Park Service campground, Rising Sun, that I plan to make it to. It’s approximately forty-five miles from West Glacier. This activity is entirely mental; the effort will relax my mind. Energy will be, in part, drawn from the views.

Folding

At Glacier Campground, the private site I chose to stay ($12), I was able to take a shower and run a load of laundry. I was down to one clean set of clothing. While waiting on the machines I did a bit of blogging.

I’m looking forward to standing atop the Continental Divide. I’ll have covered the distance from the sea.

Fortine, Montana to Whitefish, Montana - July 28, 2021

Fortine Campsite (Gearing Up to Go)

This morning, I woke at about seven o’clock and started moving. I broke camp slowly and was pedaling by eight-thirty.

I cycled to Whitefish without taking a major break. The terrain was relatively flat.

On the way, a group of young gentlemen, fresh out of college, cycled up behind me. The leader asked if I wanted to join their peloton. I fell in behind the group for awhile, chatting to the cyclist in front of me. The pack was moving fast; I was not far enough into my metamorphosis to safely keep up - bowing out after ten minutes. Staying with them would have been too much, too soon. They had a promised lunch date in Whitefish. It was interesting seeing those horses fly away down the stretch.

Truck - Farm to Market Road

Badger (Behind Post) - Farm to Market Road

Contrasts - Twin Bridges Road

Highway 93 offered a good shoulder for the majority of the ride. I exited on Farm to Market Road. When I rejoined it, just outside of Whitefish, the shoulder disappeared. I had to ride on the sand for awhile. I’m certain that this stretch of highway is on the state’s list to fix.

In town, I slipped into Montana Coffee Traders, a large coffee roaster and cafe. I had a turkey sandwich and a latte. They offered Wifi. I closed it out blogging, sending a few texts, researching and pouring over my map.

I stopped at Markus Foods, just a block away, for groceries. Before leaving, I chatted with a ski instructor from the area who had done his fair share of bicycle touring. He offered his property for camping, but I politely declined. I wanted to pedal to Whitefish Lake State Park to see if there were any other bicycle tourists camped there; also, I knew they had showers.

I cycled into the park and promptly paid the ranger ($8 + $3 for shower). The hiker / biker area was fantastic. The site has pea gravel in slightly raised beds for pitching tents. This is a smart way to accommodate large numbers of tent campers. Many times, the ground turns to concrete from overuse. It can be impossible to push a stake in. They also had flat stones to help anchor tents.

I met John immediately upon entering. He had just finished the Great Divide Trail, bikepacking the 2,500 miles. Among other things, he is heavily into long-distance bicycle racing, doing several per year. For a sixty-seven year old, I couldn’t believe the shape he was in.

I spoke with John off and on. He clued me in to the Adventure Cycling Association application for iPhone. I knew that it had existed, I just didn’t realize how useful it could be. I’ve always used the physical maps. The app shows exactly where you are on the route, with camping and public services also listed. Mileage is offered. I’m sold.

We talked about his go to food - peanut butter and oats. He mixes the two with an occasional banana. He also soaks oats overnight in water so they’re ready for breakfast. John does both of these in empty peanut butter jars. It’s easy to learn on the road.

Later, I talked extensively with a fellow cyclist named Chad. He was just staring the Great Divide Trail. He’d previously completed the Southern Tier route. It was interesting to hear his stories about the Philadelphia public school system, through the eyes of a psychologist. We both agreed that there needs to be more movement and interpersonal skills in school programs.

Unfortunately, there was no cell service or WiFi available at the campsite. This was a bummer because I’ve enjoyed giving Beth a ring in the evening.

McGuire Creek, Montana to Fortine, Montana - July 27, 2021

Route 37

I slept well at McGuire Creek. That’s pretty typical for a bicycle tour.

I’m in the process of remaking my body. It’s interesting how a person conforms to the tools they use. This was the case on the commercial fishing boat in Alaska. The bike is steel; movement is effort. I’ll be a machine in another week. The challenge is being patient with the process.

Route 37 (Lake Koocanusa Bridge)

After breaking camp, I cycled twenty-five miles to Eureka. I immediately found the library, locked up and entered the space. Having had little connection to Internet, I did a little blogging and a touch of cryptocurrency research.

I’m invested in Algo, the coin associated with the Algorand Foundation. The team is stacked with geniuses - the founder, Silvio Micali, is a Turing Award winner and an MIT professor. I’m confident in its future value. Blockchain is fascinating to me; I’ve really enjoyed my research.

The librarian was very kind, offering water and showing me where the outlets were. I so appreciate people who serve society in this capacity.

Eureka Library Spot

Library Mural

Before leaving  Eureka, I stopped for food at the Montana Market and watered up at Exxon. A man pulled up to the gas station parking lot and offered route clarification. He told me to watch for bear. I nodded. People are caring and helpful here.

Note: I’ve never seen this many pickups in my life.

Note: Pickups can be driven at extremely high velocities, and are.

Shortly before pulling into Fortine, Matt and Czrina, who I mentioned yesterday, pulled up behind me. We chatted while pedaling into town.

Jerry’s Bar and Restaurant had RV spots and tent camping ($10). It started raining while I was setting up my tent. The air and vegetation needed it.

As there wasn’t a shower, I biked over to Fortine Creek and took a bracing bath.

Fortine Creek (Bath Stop)

Later, back at the campsite, I called Mom and Dad, then Beth. She’s begun her scooter commute to work. That’s a big (positive) change for her. I know that she’s put a lot of effort into making this happen.

Libby, Montana to McGuire Creek, Montana - July 26, 2021

Haul Road (Traffic-Free)

I had a good sleep at the Libby campground. Before leaving, I spoke with two bicycle tourists, Matt and Czarina, who were two weeks into a year-long tour of the states. They had folding bikes, making transport easier. I admired their courage; that’s an incredible amount of time planned on the road.

As I mentioned before, the grocery store was adjacent to the campground. I found everything that I needed for the day, and enough to get me by the following morning. I asked the cashier for a breakfast recommendation. She mentioned Henry’s, only two minutes away.

Henry’s Restaurant turned out to be exactly what I was looking for, a greasy spoon. The waiters were pleasant, refilling my coffee several times and asking to top off water bottles.

Henry’s

I headed out of town on Haul Road, enjoying almost zero cars. A little over ten miles in, I encountered another cyclist, Steve. He was headed to Seattle, then on to Eugene to visit friends. He was an older gentleman, prompting me to think about what people are capable of as they age.

Haul Road Block

Note: Steve pedals a Surly Long Haul Trucker.

After joining Route 37, I stopped to check out Libby Dam, which creates Lake Koocanusa.

Libby Dam with Bicycle

Riding further up the route, a couple in a car stopped and offered water and two cheese packages. The man had finished a section of the Great Divide Trail (bikepacking). He carried a gallon of water in a frame bag. I can see why this would make sense on rough terrain.

Route 37

There were countless ups and downs today as I worked my way north up the eastern side of the lake. My head’s in a good space - enjoying the moment.

I found a freecamp spot, just off Route 37, on McGuire Creek. I set up my tent and cleaned up in the water. I didn’t have cell service for any calls or texts, so I kicked off at around 9:30, pretty tired.

McGuire Creek (Setting)

McGuire Creek (Old Camp Remains)

Blacktail Creek Area, Montana to Libby, Montana - July 25, 2021

Route 56

I woke to a sunny morning on Clark Fork. After breakfast on a log, I cycled over twenty miles to a restaurant / bar, the Halfway House, on route 56.

I ordered coffee, a sandwich and salad. The food was extremely slow coming out - perfect. I relaxed from the heat and wrote in my blog. Wifi was available, so I posted a short YouTube video. I should do this more often.

The Halfway House

The Halfway House (Freedom Shirt)

While seated, a man named Dennis approached me, inquiring about my bike. We chatted for a bit. His late mother lived in Langley at the Creekside Apartments. She lived a long life (100 years). Dennis offered his phone number in Libby and let me know that there was camping next to the chamber of commerce in town.

Note: The woman at the bar kindly filled three of my water bottles.

I’ve noticed that there is a real focus on the word “Freedom” here in Montana. Shirt and sign companies are making quite a lot of capital.

What does this word mean for residents?

The Certainty of Signs

Note: Motorcyclists in Montana substitute bandannas for helmets.

Note: People are kind in Montana. Everyone that I have talked to has wished me well.

Taking a right turn off Route 56, I turned onto Highway 2. A short distance up the road I encountered a sign for Kootenai Falls. I locked my bike and wandered over to the Trail Head Grill. With a two-scoop huckleberry ice cream in hand, I walked down the trail to the falls. Wow…

Trail Head Grill

Kootenai Falls

I rode into the campground in Libby around eight o’clock. Sites were ten dollars. I took number thirteen (lucky).

A cyclist named Angus was soaping up by the water spigot when I cruised the camp. I later spoke with him. He had started in Chicago and planned on cycling to Seattle, then south to Colorado. He hadn’t seen many cyclists thus far. I enjoyed our chat.

In the men’s restroom, I noticed a drain in the middle of the concrete floor. I grabbed my 1.5 liter water bottle, locked the door and took a shower. The liquid was warm from the sun - not a river dip, but better than nothing.

When preparing my tent for sleep, I had a nice chat with Beth in the phone. She patiently listened to me blowing up my sleeping pad and inflatable pillows.

Note: The campground in Libby borders a casino and a large grocery store.