Enderlin, North Dakota to Fargo, North Dakota - August 17, 2021

Lunch Stop

Today, my final day of cycling, was remarkably smooth.

I ate a number of foods for breakfast at the Enderlin Inn before filling water bottles and cycling forth. Across the street, I purchased a twelve inch veggie sub at the local gas station as well as fruit and a Clif Bar.

The manager, who made the sandwich, seemed overwhelmed. She said that it was difficult to get employees. I felt for her. I’ve seen help wanted signs all over Montana and North Dakota. I don’t know what the answer is…

Kindred Bicycle Trail

I handled today like I’ve approached all others - slow and steady, taking periodic breaks. The distance was about sixty miles.

I looked around, this was my twenty-fifth day of pedaling. I was in the cycling rhythm that I’ve grown to enjoy.

Simple Stacks

There were times on this trip that I had to push further than I like to, due to long gaps with limited services.

Thinking back, now, this stretch of 1,200+ miles tested me to a greater degree than previous tours. Mileage, heat and wind played a factor. I think that the Plains also played a few tricks on my mind.

Overall, the trip was a great challenge for me. I learned countless things about myself and have a better feeling about the world.

I feel really fortunate to have been able to have this experience. I know that something like this isn’t for everyone, but I do feel like more people could benefit from undertaking the stretch.

I don’t know what next summer will bring. I don’t know what tomorrow will bring, actually. What I did out here was live in the moment, and I want to carry that with me.

I’m looking forward to returning home, and getting back into the different routines that I love.

How can a person appreciate what they have if they don’t separate from the day-to-day for awhile?

Great Northern Bicycle Company

Note: I was able to leave my bicycle with Great Northern Bicycle Company in Fargo. They will box and ship it to my home on Whidbey Island. They are a fantastic group of people. If you’re in Fargo, be sure to stop by their shop; it’s located in an old train depot.

Gackle, North Dakota to Enderlin, North Dakota - August 16, 2021

Honey Hub Layout

I woke around 6:30 this morning, did a little cleaning of the Honey Hub and cycled out. I was officially on the road by 8:00 AM, a good start for me.

Making Our Marks (Honey Hub)

Definition (Honey Hub)

I had a chance to talk with Beth, using my AirPods, while pedaling the first leg of the ride.

My initial plan was to camp at Little Yellowstone Park, about fifty-five miles from Gackle. With about ten miles to go, I decided to extend the ride to Enderlin.

The Homestead

Cattails in the Breeze

I knew that they had a campsite. I had, the day before, called to see if there was any motel availability in Enderlin, but found that everything was booked in the two town motels. When I arrived, I figured that I’d ask, in person, to see if there was a room.

Sometimes, you can only get what you want in person.

I cycled, in total, over seventy miles to the Enderlin Inn, the first motel that I came across. When I initially asked the woman at the desk if they had a room, she said that they were booked. Then, she hesitated. She put in a quick call and let me know that, if I was willing to wait until six o’clock, there would be a room. Yeeesss!

I had cycled over seventy miles on two of the last three days and this was the perfect gift for a weary traveler.

This is the Magic of travel. You have to believe…

Tomorrow - FARGO!

Napoleon, North Dakota to Gackle, North Dakota - August 15, 2021

Pelicans!

I woke this morning feeling good after the long ride the previous day. Packing up, I headed into downtown Napoleon and found the White Maid Diner.

Upon entering, I made the mistake of ordering too much food (a large pancake, cheese omelette and breakfast burrito). The latter two were extremely greasy…

After finishing the entire order, I started to sweat. I got to the point where I was considering heading to the restroom, but, instead, quickly paid and exited for fresh air. That helped. I figured that if I started cycling, I would begin working through the food and the feeling.

I grabbed a couple of sandwiches at a gas station before leaving town.

A short while down the road, I was feeling reasonably well. Pedaling cures.

Downtown Gackle

Tastee Freez

Honey Hub Directions

I cycled, with few stops, to the town of Gackle. When I arrived, I took a pit stop at the local Tastee Freez. I ordered an apple sundae and relaxed in the moment.

I then shot over to the Honey Hub, a “cyclists respite”, similar to a small hostel.

Honey Hub Information

The owners, Ginny and Jason, currently offer a separate part of their home to weary cyclists. Wil, a westbound cyclist who I met several days ago, let me know about the place.

Pizza in the Hub

The space operates entirely by donation. The world would be a better place if more people had this kind of giving attitude.

I spoke with the two for some time before I entered the Hub for a shower. They offered pizza and peas; I couldn’t refuse.

I spoke to Mom, Beth and Olin before calling it a night.

Bismarck, North Dakota to Napoleon, North Dakota - August 15, 2021

Millennium Trail (Continued)

After rolling away from the Motel 6, I locked up at Kroll’s Diner, a restaurant adjacent to the motel. I had a big breakfast and quite a quantity of coffee. I knew that I would need both for the ride.

The Joy of a Diner

I obtained groceries and left Bismarck on the Millennium Trail. It ended at the University of Mary. I stopped when I heard whistles blowing and spirited men yelling. Cycling up a hill, I beheld the football team, practicing drills. There seemed to be quite a lot of standing around - it was one-on-one skill work. I remember having a good time playing the sport, but didn’t envy the youth. They can have their fling.

University of Mary Football

I cycled for over seventy miles today, not to bad for a slowpoke. There was a bit of wind, and so it took me about 8.5 hours to do it.

Lunch Stop with Cattle

On the Libby application, I downloaded a couple of books by Charles Bukowski - something different to listen to while rolling through the Plains. During the ride, I completed “Ham on Rye”. I had read “The Post Office”. Both were decent.

With twenty-five mikes remaining, I stopped for a break at a Cenex. There, I had several cold drinks and a Rolo. The two sisters working there were pleasant. It was their last day on the job. Each were moving on to either college or a different occupation.

McKenna Lake 1

McKenna Lake 2

I counted down the miles on the final stretch. I’ve noticed more lakes popping up as I’ve moved into eastern North Dakota. These must be hinting at the Minnesota border.

I arrived at the Mozy Inn Motel in Napoleon. The proprietor had opened my room and left the key neatly on the table. I was impressed by the quality and price.

Rainbow in Napoleon 🌈 

Note: At around 8:30 PM the power went out in all of Napoleon. I used my headlamp.

Mozy Inn (Simple Exterior)

New Salem, North Dakota to Bismarck, North Dakota - August 13, 2021

Sunflower Fields Forever 🌻 

It was colder last night. As long as I don’t start getting chills down my sides, I tend to sleep better when the temperature is low.

Getting out of the tent, I threw on my fleece jacket and had a bite on a pile of concrete pieces that were stacked at the corner of the field. They were in the sun. I was a little lizard. 

After packing, I rolled downhill to Tellmann’s Market before leaving New Salem. Hits from the 50’s were playing inside and outside of the store. I had more to eat at the plastic table outside, then pedaled down the road toward Bismarck.

Millennium Trail (Mandan)

Trail Marker

Closing in on my destination, I was impressed by the Millennium Trail, linking Mandan and Bismarck. In populated areas, it’s a relief to have designated bicycle trails to ride. Honestly, all communities should have these transportation routes, especially paralleling busy highways. In one hundred years, the routes that cyclists use will be remarkably safer in the States.

Crossing the Missouri into Bismarck

Exiting the route, I spotted Caribou Coffee. I entered a vortex there for ninety minutes, writing and doing a little research.

I then moved to the Bismarck Public Library and uploaded pictures to a couple of neglected blog posts and relaxed. Later, while outside, I took a picture of a recently planted tree and uploaded it to comTree.

Bismarck Public

Moving deeper into Bismarck, I cycled to the Motel 6 where I had made my reservation for the night. I was happy to have a place in town despite the fantastic amount of cigarette butts in the parking lot and the grimy interior of the unit.

Richardton, North Dakota to New Salem, North Dakota - August 12, 2021

Hay Bales Forever

Waking from a decent sleep, I rose from my bed in Richardton. After the usual pack up, I was bound for the local Cenex.

Note: In these parts, I survive on Cenex and State of North Dakota Rest Stops - a reasonable balance.

In these tiny towns, the Cenex stations are nearly everything - food, fuel and a community gathering place. Most all contain several tables and chairs. Groups of residents often assemble as they would at a cafe. This Cenex offered showers!

Question:  Could Cenex offer everything to small town residents? Beds? A cryptocurrency? Cremation? Why not go the distance…

After purchasing coffee (Is it worth purchasing this particular drink at any gas station on the planet?) and food, I sat at an inside table and had breakfast.

Note: The sheer number of people who use Cenex restrooms is astonishing.

Noses into the Wind

I left Richardton and cycled to Glen Ullin, hoping that the local library would be open to the public. It was not.

The days (Wednesday and Friday) and hours (120 minutes each day) was more limited than I have, thus far, experienced on the planet. The WiFi had a password that I didn’t have access to. This was another good test of my patience.

I stopped by the local grocery store and purchased a Dr. Pepper and some fruit, which I consumed in front of the library.

Glen Ullin Public

I then selected belongings (maps, electronics, a Speedo) that I wasn’t using and sent them to Langley using the post office across the street.

Shortly after, I left Glen Ullin.

I battled the west wind while pulling a three-mile, northbound hill, then turned to cycle east towards New Salem.

Rest Stop (Outside of New Salem)

Braking at a rest stop on the way, I was looking forward to quieting my mind for awhile. An older gentleman struck up a conversation with me, leaning into the extremely political issues of the day - COVID vaccines, the wearing of masks, transgender youth, abortion, the defunding of police, the use of Agent Orange, divorce, god and patriotism (to name a few).

I’m surprised to say that I didn’t lose my composure as he paced around the rest stop, drawing onlookers.  At one point I was told not to leave while he took a “whiz”.

These social circumstances are good tests for me. I would do well to find non-confrontational ways to excuse myself from situations such as these. I’ll get better as time passes.

In New Salem, I tried to acquire a room at the Arrowhead Inn. The two-star motel was completely booked. I bicycled back to the North Park Campground in town and paid $15 for a site.

North Park Campground (Spare)

The place, I found out later, was really primitive. The proprietor led me to a field, and I was told that I could pitch my tent there. There were no picnic tables, showers, or a restroom for that matter. I scratched my head wondering what I had paid for, but was happy to have a place where I would remain unbothered for the evening. It took a shower, using a bottle of water, and climbed into my tent.

I was able to talk on the phone to Anders and Beth before drifting off to sleep.

Medora, North Dakota to Richardton, North Dakota - August 11, 2021

The Farmhouse Cafe (Medora)

This morning, before leaving the campsite, a mountain bike pro, from Minnesota, approached me in the bathroom while was washing up. He asked how I was doing, then offered a little food and drink.

I’m always bashful about taking things from people; I need to become more comfortable with it. I realize that it does them good too.

I walked over to his van and met his partner. The two of them offered caramel rice cakes (on the wrapper one had written the words “I think you’re awesome!”) and a little can of Coke. It was so thoughtful. The sugar would help.

The lady was taking some of her artwork to sell at a market. I hope that it’s a successful trip.

I spoke with them for awhile. I missed their names because I wasn’t paying close enough attention. This is something that I’m working on.

Leaving the campground, a young man dropped his window and yelled out, “You’re a badass!” He flashed the peace sign. I just told him that I was plugging along.

I’m lost in daydream often, so it amazes (and startles) me that others take the time to offer words of encouragement. The world is a beautiful place. The media paints false pictures.

I dropped by the Farmhouse Cafe, in downtown Medora, for breakfast. A man named Mike, who I later found out was one of the three county commissioners, sat beside me at the breakfast bar up front.

Mike has ranched for mast if his life, being content to live in North Dakota, not traveling much. He had a lot of questions about what I was doing, and I enjoyed finding out more about his time on the planet. Mike was on the verge of retirement from public service; his son and grandchildren currently live within a mile of his house. What more could a person ask for? He genuinely patted me on the back as he left.

North Dakota Badlands

Lunch Stop

Later, on my way to Dickinson, I stopped to chat with a westbound cyclist named Wil. He was biking to the west coast, trying to raise money for ALS. I enjoyed my short chat with him. He will love the alpine cycling to come.

Here is a link to his website:

https://sites.google.com/terpmail.umd.edu/againstthewind

I’ve never strongly considered bicycling for a cause. It’s possible that I’m becoming a better human being by taking these tours. That is my hope.

Note: Shortly after conversing with Wil, I was repeatedly dive bombed by hawk.

Hawk Encounter (I wish I had video…)

I was down to my last clean change of clothes, so I sought out a laundromat in Dickinson. The first one I attempted to enter was closed due to construction work around it.

Prairie Maid Laundromat wasn’t far away and IT WAS IMPRESSIVE - everything that a large-scale laundromat should be. While I washed clothes, I had a bite to eat and rearranged my handlebar bag. I slipped the final Adventure Cycling map into the slipcase. The trip is nearing completion.

Prairie Maid Laundromat (Fine Machines)

I cycled away down Old Highway 10 to Richardton. Previously, I had made a reservation at the Ray Bern Motel. The owner met me at the office and showed me room number five. She was extremely particular about what she wanted turned off before I left the next morning. I could tell that she cared for the place. It was furnished with an assortment of second hand items, but was clean.

Ray Burn Motel

I spoke with Beth (wonderful) and pushed off to sleep.

Glendive, Montana to Medora, North Dakota - August 10, 2021

Last Stretch of Montana

I woke at the Yellowstone River Inn and walked down to their restaurant for a meal. I had a large breakfast burrito and too many cups of coffee.

I cycled the last portion of Montana, through scrubland and wheat fields. Like every checkpoint in life, it was a little bitter sweet.

I was interested in cycling in North Dakota, a state that I’d never set foot in previously.

Upon entering, I stopped to take a quick picture of the border sign (colorful). I then pedaled into Beach and spotted a rest area.

Making it Official

North Dakota does not disappoint in regards to rest stops. I spent at least an hour sipping a warm Coke (I had to plug in the machine) and writing. The building offered free WiFi. On this trip, my eyes have been opened to the wonders of rest stops. I will be forever grateful to the people who design, built and maintain these oases of the road.

Beach Rest Stop (Interior)

Beach Rest Stop (Exterior Beauty)

I was off and on Highway 94 throughout the day. Upon entering the North Dakota Badlands, I took the suggested Old Highway 10 Road.

It was a dream! There were almost zero vehicles and I was witness to miles of red-tipped bluffs that lit when the sun peeked it’s head out from behind a cloud. My head was on a swivel, captured in the moment.

Clean Paint on Skyline

North Dakota Badlands (Old Highway 10)

I had reserved a tent site at Medora Campground ($30). There was a strong wind when I arrived, causing me to push stakes deep. To my surprise, the soil was soft enough.

Medora Campground

I’m beginning the final leg of this summer’s ride. My plan is to ride through the state to Fargo, a town on the border of Minnesota.