Newport, Washington to Sandpoint, Idaho - July 18, 2020

I made it to Sandpoint, Idaho!

Today was a lower mileage day, comparatively. It was approximately thirty miles to Sandpoint. I knew that I had plenty of time, but wanted to get there a bit early to rest. As I had already purchased a train ticket, I wanted to account for the possibility of a flat tire, broken derailleur or busted chain.

After packing up the stealth campsite and finishing the previous day’s blog post, I cycled to Priest River. There, I enjoyed a large breakfast at AJ’s Cafe. 

The food was good; I just wish that I’d had a table set at a distance from the kitchen. The air emanating from the space was a touch putrid. The waitress filled my water bottle.

The ride itself was pleasant. I listened to Gershwin’s “Rhapsody in Blue” and a Boards of Canada album. I tried a podcast by “The Minimalists” regarding the topic of simplifying one’s wardrobe. I may have them beat. If you’ve seen me one day, you’ve seen me every day.

Crossing Lake Pend Oreille River, I came upon a little park down by the water. With a number of hours to spare, I pulled the brakes and surveyed the scene. This was an easy place to spend the afternoon. I locked my bike to a tree, then bathed and took a swim in the river. I then slipped into my hammock for longer than I should have. It was wonderful.

Pedaling into downtown Sandpoint, I stopped at Connie’s Restaurant for a lemonade.

I’ve been diligent about wearing my mask in public places on this trip, especially when I go indoors. The waitress met me with “You don’t have to wear a mask. You’re in Idaho.” She seemed a touch upset.

Idaho is wide open. I overheard conversations about meeting for karaoke from a small group sitting next to me.

After the lemonade, I beat it for the train station. Inevitably, the virus will show up in this town. Unfortunately, there aren’t enough lifestyle changes in place to stop its spread.

My train to Everett was about thirty minutes late. I was talking to Beth, so the time just slipped by without me being conscious of it. It was so kind of her to stay up with me, especially considering it was after midnight.

I splurged on a sleeper car, which was well-worth the extra dough. The bike cost $20 extra, but, fortunately, I didn’t have to take it apart. This couldn’t have worked out better.

For this leg of the Northern Tier (Anacortes, Washington, to Sandpoint, Idaho) I bicycled approximately 450 total miles and crossed five mountain passes. I didn’t have any bicycle issues, not even a flat tire. This was the first tour for my relatively new Long Haul Trucker with Continental tires.

I enjoyed having Anders with me for over half of the trip. It’s my hope that we can tour again together. He’s a wonderful companion.

After eleven days of cycling, I’ll be good to be home. I’m going to cycle from Everett Station to the Mukilteo ferry. Beth will give me a lift from Clinton to Langley in our van, Moby. I’m so looking forward to seeing her.

Until next time...

Ione, Washington to Newport, Washington - July 17, 2020

I started the day by obtaining groceries in Ione. The store had been warned that it needed to require that people wear masks when inside. I saw signs up in multiple places begging customers to do so. I noticed one maskless young man. His posture sent the message that he wasn’t to be tangled with, but his eyes darted around a lot. He left the store with a big bag of charcoal.

I experienced a long, flat, scenic cycle today. In all, I pedaled over fifty miles. Thank heavens for podcasts.

After entering Newport, I stopped at Mama Sanchez’s Restaurant. They made me a fantastic burrito which I consumed on their patio. While there, I researched and called several local campsites and motels. Accommodations were nonexistent.

I cycled over to the private KM resort “Old American”. The host wanted $50 for a place to set up my tent. No way.

I watered up at the nearby Tesoro gas station and hit the road out of town. I knew that something good would happen due to the beautiful rainbow overhead.

Following my route into Idaho, I cycled onto Old Priest River Road. Behind a local fire station, I pushed my stakes for the night. Before crawling into my tent, I used just under two liters of water for a luxurious bottle shower.

One last cycle remains on this adventure.

Kettle Falls, Washington to Ione, Washington - July 16, 2020

This morning, I hit the road around nine thirty. There was a big day ahead (again), and I knew it. Towns are few and far between out here, and I’m certainly feeling the momentum that comes with physical travel.

Bicycle touring allows for a respectable amount of distance covered, but at a pace that one can really drink in the surroundings. I get hooked on the ever-changing landscapes and challenges.

I made my first, and only, prolonged stop in Colville. Upon entering, I checked Yelp for the best restaurant in town. The Colville Pour House popped up.

I spent about an hour in a chair relaxing, having a sandwich and a glass of kombucha. Above a refrigerator, I noticed a large “Buddy Board” with prepaid food and drinks - from friends, to friends. I’m sure that these exist all over (I don’t spend a lot of time in bars), but I hadn’t seen this system before. It seems better than a gift card.

Out of town, Aaron, a fellow bicycle tourist who Anders and I had first met in Omak, cycled up from behind.

We had a engaging chat. He’s cycled a number of the routes I have and, to my surprise, has the same model of bicycle. He had his front wheel rebuilt with a charging hub, something that is on my short list. He had been cycling for a good portion of the day, and I left him as he reached his destination, a bicycle only hostel.

I had a bit of a climb, then flat, then my last long, coasting drop of this trip. On the climb, I stopped to chat with two twenty-somethings who had cycled from New York. I congratulated them on this huge accomplishment. They were both in high spirits.

At about 7:45 PM, I entered Ione. There, I gave Porter’s Plaza Hotel a call. I was able to secure a cheap room ($60) just in time (the “office” closed at 8:00).

I have two more days of cycling before I reach Sandpoint, Idaho.

Republic, Washington to Kettle Falls, Washington - July 15, 2020

I took my time in Republic this morning, finishing the previous day’s blog post, squaring away my rental application and ordering an Amtrak ticket from Sandpoint to Everett on Saturday. It’s truly amazing what a person can do on a cellphone. There’s no better time to travel (minus the Pandemic, of course).

After purchasing groceries, I started cycling (11:30 AM). It took five hours of consistent pedaling to reach the top of Sherman Pass. There was beauty all around.

Grassland, pine and rock faces combine in pleasing patterns. Small creeks chuckle as you roll by.

For several stretches, hitchhiking mosquitoes stopped for a ride and a meal. Some met their maker. Others left a red calling card.

I stopped numerous times to consume calories. Long stretches of cycling demand that a rider pay attention to blood sugar levels. Error on the side of more fuel.

The downhill to Kettle Falls was, again, something to remember. This was the last major pass that I would be coasting down. I was conscious to soak up the feeling. I’m certain that it meant more having climbed the other side. The downhill balances the day - the agony, the ecstasy. 

My map showed a campsite on the banks of the Columbia, just shy of Kettle Falls. Upon entering, I noticed several signs that were clear about the fact that campers needed advance, online reservations three-days in advance of their stay. I filled my water bottles, thinking that I’d find a stealth spot to camp later down the line.

Cycling out, I pedaled by the campsite host. He happened to be outside, and, after a brief conversation, hooked me up with a FREE spot overlooking the river. Travel magic.

There were no showers, but no matter. I bathed on the banks of the Columbia.

I ended the day with a long chat with Beth (What could be better?).

Tonasket, Washington to Republic, Washington - July 14, 2020

I didn’t get a ton of sleep while at Shannon’s place due to the thought of Anders leaving and the semi trucks passing by on Highway 20. I think that there may have also been lingering caffeine in my body from the late-lunch coffee binge.

Anders and I ate breakfast at Shannon’s  with Charlie and Craig around nine. I really appreciated them coming to see us in Eastern Washington. Friendly faces on trips give a certain amount of new energy.

The most difficult part of the day, by far, was saying goodbye to my son, Anders. My throat was hard and my voice broken as we had parting words. He’s in my heart and I will see him soon.

Have you ever pedaled a bicycle upwards for twenty-six miles? I never had.

The climb put me in an interesting headspace. These are fantastic experiences because they prompt living in the moment. Being satisfied with where you are is key.

Miles before Wauconda, a white pickup slowly pulled up from behind, a father and daughter seated inside. The girl reached out to me with a cold bottle of water and a smile. I popped the top and remembered that a random act of kindness is a universal sign of hope.

I took the hand of J. S. Bach for the final stretch (Brandenburg Concertos 1 - 6). Johann found note and timing combinations in those pieces that communicate a soft, calm energy.

Note: More classical music.

After cresting Wauconda Pass, I took a break coasting down to Republic. This wasn’t the steep decent that I’ve experienced on other passes, but a more leisurely downhill was just what I needed.

Entering Republic, I picked up groceries and obtained a room at the Northern Inn. I was pretty tired, and no one picked up the phone at the fairgrounds campground two miles out of town.

I stored my bike in the Inn’s conference room, dumped my things in room eleven, took a shower, ate and called Beth (wonderful).

Tomorrow will be another big test on Sherman Pass.