Fortine, Montana to Whitefish, Montana - July 28, 2021

Fortine Campsite (Gearing Up to Go)

This morning, I woke at about seven o’clock and started moving. I broke camp slowly and was pedaling by eight-thirty.

I cycled to Whitefish without taking a major break. The terrain was relatively flat.

On the way, a group of young gentlemen, fresh out of college, cycled up behind me. The leader asked if I wanted to join their peloton. I fell in behind the group for awhile, chatting to the cyclist in front of me. The pack was moving fast; I was not far enough into my metamorphosis to safely keep up - bowing out after ten minutes. Staying with them would have been too much, too soon. They had a promised lunch date in Whitefish. It was interesting seeing those horses fly away down the stretch.

Truck - Farm to Market Road

Badger (Behind Post) - Farm to Market Road

Contrasts - Twin Bridges Road

Highway 93 offered a good shoulder for the majority of the ride. I exited on Farm to Market Road. When I rejoined it, just outside of Whitefish, the shoulder disappeared. I had to ride on the sand for awhile. I’m certain that this stretch of highway is on the state’s list to fix.

In town, I slipped into Montana Coffee Traders, a large coffee roaster and cafe. I had a turkey sandwich and a latte. They offered Wifi. I closed it out blogging, sending a few texts, researching and pouring over my map.

I stopped at Markus Foods, just a block away, for groceries. Before leaving, I chatted with a ski instructor from the area who had done his fair share of bicycle touring. He offered his property for camping, but I politely declined. I wanted to pedal to Whitefish Lake State Park to see if there were any other bicycle tourists camped there; also, I knew they had showers.

I cycled into the park and promptly paid the ranger ($8 + $3 for shower). The hiker / biker area was fantastic. The site has pea gravel in slightly raised beds for pitching tents. This is a smart way to accommodate large numbers of tent campers. Many times, the ground turns to concrete from overuse. It can be impossible to push a stake in. They also had flat stones to help anchor tents.

I met John immediately upon entering. He had just finished the Great Divide Trail, bikepacking the 2,500 miles. Among other things, he is heavily into long-distance bicycle racing, doing several per year. For a sixty-seven year old, I couldn’t believe the shape he was in.

I spoke with John off and on. He clued me in to the Adventure Cycling Association application for iPhone. I knew that it had existed, I just didn’t realize how useful it could be. I’ve always used the physical maps. The app shows exactly where you are on the route, with camping and public services also listed. Mileage is offered. I’m sold.

We talked about his go to food - peanut butter and oats. He mixes the two with an occasional banana. He also soaks oats overnight in water so they’re ready for breakfast. John does both of these in empty peanut butter jars. It’s easy to learn on the road.

Later, I talked extensively with a fellow cyclist named Chad. He was just staring the Great Divide Trail. He’d previously completed the Southern Tier route. It was interesting to hear his stories about the Philadelphia public school system, through the eyes of a psychologist. We both agreed that there needs to be more movement and interpersonal skills in school programs.

Unfortunately, there was no cell service or WiFi available at the campsite. This was a bummer because I’ve enjoyed giving Beth a ring in the evening.